Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Diane von Fürstenberg: Woman in Charge review – hedonist fashion-biz phenom has tales to tell

Inventor of the wrap dress, sexual adventurer and a legendary celebrity – this amusing, affectionate doc is a tribute to someone with lots to say

So many fashion documentaries are frigid and vapid; this one, though, from film-makers Trish Dalton and Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy, has a story to tell about someone with something to say. Diane von Fürstenberg is the designer, entrepreneur, former Olympic-level hedonist and Studio 54 habitué, who once (separately) got it on with Warren Beatty and Ryan O’Neal over the same weekend but airily turned down a threesome with Mick Jagger and David Bowie. She was also the daughter of a Belgian Jewish Holocaust survivor, Lily Halfin, to whom she was very close throughout her life and was devastated when Lily suffered a delayed trauma decades after the war; her mother had a breakdown while on a business trip to Germany, triggered by loud German voices. Von Fürstenberg herself had to contend with antisemitism, not least from her husband’s relatives; she was married to the bisexual German cocaine enthusiast Prince Egon von Fürstenberg.

Von Fürstenberg’s key invention (apart from her own celebrity, which was so important in bolstering and diversifying her brand) was the sensationally successful form-fitting wrap dress. It was developed from a wrap top she had initially designed, itself inspired by ballerina clothing; then she saw Richard Nixon’s daughter Julie defending him on TV, wearing this same top with a skirt and Von Fürstenberg had the idea to make it a whole dress. With the support of Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, it became the key retail fashion item of the age; as she says, American women were wearing it for their first job, first interview or first prom. Wittily, the film shows a clip of Cybill Shepherd’s character wearing a Von Fürstenberg wrap dress in Taxi Driver in a scene with Robert De Niro’s Travis Bickle. (And like a lot of that film’s male fanbase, I hadn’t until now appreciated that.)

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from Fashion | The Guardian https://ift.tt/rlUy2DH
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