Friday, July 24, 2026

Plus-size models and £5 tickets: Sinéad O’Dwyer’s runway show puts inclusivity first

V&A event celebrates all shapes and sizes as wider fashion industry stalls on body diversity

Visitors to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum on Friday afternoon to watch Sinéad O’Dwyer’s Fashion in Motion show would have encountered something a little different. The cast of performers and models wore everything from underwear to skirt suits and sequins, and sometimes danced interpretively on the catwalk to a performance by the band Jeanie and The White Boys, but most notably came in all shapes and sizes.

O’Dwyer’s work has pushed against fashion’s insistence on a thin body type since she appeared at London fashion week in 2021. If most brands make the samples for clothes shown on the catwalk based on a size 4-8, she uses a size 18. She has won awards for her work, as well as celebrity fans including Cardi B and Björk.

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‘It’s become a nepo baby sport’: how secondhand fashion got so expensive

Thanks to gen Z resellers and platforms like Depop, thrifting has lost its subcultural roots - and ballooned into a $350bn business

Vintage boutique owner Janelle Best has been rummaging in thrift shop bins since the 90s. When she started, she says, there was a stigma about it. “It was either you were a freak, or you were poor – and I was a freak.”

At first, she did it to source stage outfits while playing in psych-rock bands. Then, in 2005, she started “casually reselling” on eBay. Ten years later she was trading as Desert Stars Vintage at street markets, and by 2023 she had opened a showroom specializing in upmarket silk dresses in her Williamsburg apartment. Even just a few years ago, she says, she still put in the hours at places like Goodwill. The bins, she says, “were a field day. There were so many fucking bangers.” And then, thrifting became a social media craze, she says, “and the hell gates of high school students flooded in. Twelve people to each bin. Everyone fighting. Suddenly everyone’s a reseller, and instead of these kids intuitively knowing what’s good, they’re on their phones trying to figure out if it’s valuable.”

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Are multi-way clothes the answer to sustainable fashion - or just another excuse to buy more stuff?

Brands are making clothes that can be adapted by the wearer. But with fast fashion giants getting in on the act, perhaps we should just stick to wearing our cardigans backwards

I’m sitting on my bedroom floor trying to fasten the sleeves back on to a new top that’s just been delivered. I haven’t had an unfortunate accident with scissors; the removable sleeves are a design feature, part of the growing trend for multi-way clothing that is being championed as a win for sustainability – or for anyone moving from air-conditioned office to outside right now. Brow furrowed, I try to attach the puff of red taffeta to the rest of the frilly blouse using the tiny buttons and loops provided. But I’m not having much luck …

I enjoy messing around with clothes. Aged 10, I pranced around a sun-drenched Greek holiday in a top that was really a skirt. But a top with sleeves that detach? I’d lose them instantly, I’m sure of it. Even if I didn’t, would my two-tops-in-one actually curb my rabid appetite for new clothes or would it simply feed the beast; another trend to be devoured and then discarded, just like the sleeves?

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Thursday, July 23, 2026

School’s out for summer: what to wear when travelling

Whether you’re on a staycation or jetting away, drawstring trousers and clever layering will keep you cool

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Wednesday, July 22, 2026

Jess Cartner-Morley on fashion: mermaidcore calls for shimmer and shells – just don’t go overboard

What does a grownup mermaid look like? It starts with the silhouette …

Before wild swimming was even a twinkle in the eye of the culture, and before ice plunging went viral on TikTok, there were mermaids. Mermaids are the original summer It girls. Who doesn’t want hair that looks great when it’s wet and salty, shell jewellery, killer sex appeal and a life of sun, sea and winding up sailors for kicks? These chicks know how to live.

Mermaidcore is this summer’s hottest style vibe. It is beach chic with a hot-sauce dash of brat energy. Every summer has its own off-duty avatar – tomato girl summer, anyone? – and 2026 is all about mermaids. For legal reasons, please note this column is not endorsing the luring of innocents to certain death. The vibe is Daryl Hannah in Splash, not selkies and sirens.

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