Unflappable Chanel in no hurry to find new designer amid continuity in Paris

Label doubles down on house codes as empty birdcage signals its last creative director – Virginie Viard – has flown

The birdcage on the Chanel catwalk was empty, its door swung open. A metaphor for a house that is without a designer after Virginie Viard’s recent departure – the bird has flown – and a Chanel Easter egg, a wink to a teenage Vanessa Paradis swinging in a birdcage in a 1991 advertisement for Coco fragrance that was itself a reference to the birds Coco herself kept in her Paris home.

This birdcage was scaled for a golden eagle, almost reaching the 45-metre ceiling height of the Grand Palais – appropriate for a brand that has grown from Coco’s apartment to become a $20bn (£15bn) business.

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