Wednesday, June 26, 2024

Cut from a different cloth: don’t be fooled by fashion’s obsession with upper-class wardrobes

While the aristocracy often inform mood boards and glossy magazine pages, we should not be distracted by the romanticisation of inherited titles and unearned fortunes

It is a peculiar quirk of the British aristocracy that you can hold a title, such as the duke of Devonshire, and have no connection to the part of the country to which it is referring. The Devonshires – first earls and later dukes – do not reside in Devon. Past and present property includes Bolton Abbey in North Yorkshire, and Chiswick House and Burlington House in London . The jewel in the portfolio is Chatsworth: a magnificent Grade I-listed pile in Derbyshire, often described as one of Britain’s favourite stately homes. For those who have a lot of it, land becomes just another heirloom to be parcelled up, sold off, bequeathed and bounced down and around the generations, like a nice handbag or antique opera coat.

This summer, Chatsworth hosts Erdem: Imaginary Conversations, an exhibition exploring the influence of the late Deborah Cavendish, nee Mitford, former inhabitant and muse for the designer’s spring/summer 24 collection. Showcasing deconstructed ballgowns and bejewelled insects, the opening look is the funniest, a fraying tweed skirt-suit alluding to the Duchess’s love of derbyshire redcaps and Scots dumpies. Erdem says he wanted it to look “ravaged by chickens”.

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